Once Bitten

From the moment I first learned the legend of Count Dracula, my soul has been drawn to mystic deep forests of Transylvania.  Quaint villages, nomadic gypsys, and looming castles against a moonlit backdrop have captured my imagination and fueled a dark curiosity of things that go bump in the night.  While not the midnight trek I had once envisioned, my quest of Dracula began on a cool Sunday morning with my friend Suzanne, and our guide Andrei.  Without the suburbs to dilute the city borders, the landscape sharply changed to Kansas-like plains dotted with oil pumps and sheep herds under the careful watch of their young keepers.

Andrei gave us a brief history of Romania as we headed into the foothills of the looming Carpathians toward our first stop, the Sinaia Monastery.  The complex houses 2 Orthodox churches, one dating 1695, and the "new"one, built in 1846.  Amazing fresco paintings blanketed the interior walls of the small church while peaceful gardens buffered the outside bustle.  As we left, Andrei translated the saying over the archway "God bless all entries and exits"



Our next stop was Peleş Castle.  The summer residence of Romania's first King, the interior felt like the inside of a cuckoo-clock.  Over 20 types of wood were used to create intricate inlaid designs in the walls and ceilings of the entire castle.  The combination of the Bavarian style complex and the surrounding acres of trees transported us to the German countryside.  

Deeper into Transylvania we traveled to the city of Braşov, announced by the Hollywood-like sign overlooking the council square and the locals soaking up the warm noontime sun.  Here we visited the Gothic Black Church (named for a fire and resulting soot that colored its walls in 1689) then stopped for a traditional and hearty Romanian lunch.  

Finally, we began our trek into the Carpathian Mountains, heading to Bran Castle, the literary home of Dracula.  While the connection to the Vlad the Impaler (the inspiration for Dracula) is limited to a few days in its dungeon, the sharp, yet fairytale turrets arising from the rocky cliffside gave it an eerie aura worthy of the fictional tale.  The interior was full of twisting staircases, hidden rooms and narrow balconies reminiscent of an Escher print.  A late-day storm battered the windows and set forth howling winds which shook the window panes, sending us fleeing from the castle and leaving Dracula to his slumber.

From Bombay with Love

 Namaste from the hotel staff

Mumbai is an assault on the senses.   The constant noise is at levels that make your ears ring.  The smells are intense, whether its the incense in the hotel or the fragrant flowers outside of office buildings, or the garbage and sewage in the streets.  The sights are constant paradoxes, with Bentley dealers next to dwellings constructed of torn cloth and tarps and Cartier stores with rats running by the door.   Its almost too much to wrap your head around.   But while my senses have been overloaded, my soul has been lightened by the spirit, kindness, and smiles of every single person I have met.   I am truly amazed at comfortable I have been made in a city that is so far outside my comfort zone.

With long hours, distance from central Mumbai, and no extra days built into my trip, I was certain that I would leave India without seeing something other then the office, the hotel and the 280 meters of the street between them.  However, an opportunity came up to brave the rush hour, and head into downtown to see a few sites and have a bite to eat with some coworkers.  So tonight, I was off to my newest adventure!

Central Mumbai at a distance

While central Mumbai is only 25km (15.5 miles) from my hotel, it still took 90 (harrowing) mins to get to our destination.  And this was not even "bad" traffic!!  (I will never complain about DC traffic again).  I am not exactly sure how 4 cars, 3 motorbikes, 2 rickshaws and a bus all fit on a 3 lane road, but we did!  I distracted myself by watching the city as it creeped by.   Here, in the middle of dilapidated concrete was amazing Georgian architecture struggle to hold on it its beauty in spite of the harshness surrounding it.  Once again, this city is proving to be an enigma!

Gateway to India

Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

 Trying hard not to kiss the road when our driver dropped us off, we headed over to the Gateway of India.  This arch was constructed to welcome King George V and Queen Mary in 1911 to celebrate the first British monarch to visit India.  This impressive structure overlooks the Arabian Sea, and is a popular gathering place for both locals and tourists alike.   For our next stop, we decided to toast our trip at the famed Harbour Bar, in the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel.   This 1903 hotel fell victim to the 2008 bombings in the city, however it was restored and is back in all its opulence!  We overlooked the water as we took in the sunset from the bar and finished our evening in Bombay.  

Africa Part 3: Up the pass and into Lesotho

My next adventure started at 6am with a cheerful greeting by Dave, my faithful tour guide.  We were off to the mountains thru the gentle mist of an early morning, enjoying the quiet that comes with a Sunday morning.  After 2 hours driving through pine tree farms we arrived at Underberg.  Here, I was handed from Dave to Charles, who would be the guide for the trip up the Sani Pass and into the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.  I was joined at this point by a Dutch couple who were 1 week into their 3 week holiday trip to S. Africa. 

In a blue Land Rover that had seen much better days, our group was off to begin our ascent into the Drakenburg mountains, which is both a UNESCO heritage site and a protected nature reserve.  As the road gradually got steeper, we passed through rolling green slopes and came upon a troop of baboons out for a morning frolick.  Finally we reach the South Africian border control, and enter into No Mans Land, where only 4-wheel drive vehicles are permitted.

At this point, the slope increases, the road becomes nothing more then a narrow tow-path full of rocks and hairpin turns.  These curves have been named by the locals as "Devil's Elbow", "Suicide Corner" and "Don't look to your left"....to name a few!  Needless to say, I was gripping the seat and praying that the seat belt held!

Much relief was had when we reached the top, and passed through Lesotho immigration.    We only spent a few hours in Lesotho, but in that time we went to a border village and spent time with some local woman, listening as they told us the history of the independent kingdom which is completly surrounded by South Africa.   We were treated to freshly made bread (wonderful!) and beer (a bit on the unusual side).   Afterwards we lunched at the Sani Top Lodge, the highest pub in Africa at 9000 ft above sea level!

 

At the end of the day, we made our way back down the pass, which had not gotten any less frightening in the hours we were off of it.   Finally, we made it back to the bottom, where I met back up with Dave and headed back to the coast!

Africa Part 2: In Search of the Big 5!

There is only one thing that can make me wake up before the 5:30am alarm on a Saturday morning......SAFARI!!!!  So after being greeted and collected by Dave (who ended up being my personal tour guide), we headed north through the sugar cane and eucalyptus tree fields, into Zululand.  Along the way, I learned about south african poltics, history of the local tribes, and many other interesting facts about the area. 

2.5 hours later we roll into Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, the oldest game reserve park in South Africa.   Its also a leader in conservation, bringing the White Rhino back from the brink of extinction.  Lastly, it is home to all of the Big 5: elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion and leopard.  All of this gives me hope of some serious animal sightings during the day. 

Within the first half hour, I had seen rhino, zebra, giraffe and buffalo.  The most amazing thing about the park is that the animals are not segregated and hand feed.  They roam around in their natural ecosystem, hunting and intermingling in the way that they would outside of human eyes.  There is such a feeling of sneaking a peek at something that amazing.

The most amazing part of the day was as we were pulled off on a side trail, trying to figure out if the grey blob in the distance was a rhino or an elephant.  Just as we were about to move on, a movement from up the hillside grabbed our attention.  There, a few young elephants were making their way down to the waterhole.  Then a few more came down, and then a few more.  In just a few moments, there were more then 40 elephants were gathered around for a drink and some cooling off.  The herd was made up of older elephants and young calfs.  Even some babies, so incredably small, tagging along, single file with the mom. 

After a break for lunch, we set out along the south side of the park.  The midday naptime apparently applies to the animal kingdom, as there was less wildlife out and about.  Towards the end we came upon some antelope and some warthogs grazing on the side of the road, giving us a last sight before heading back to Durban.

Africa Part 1: Joburg!

Well, its official!  Wed morning, at 7:30am, I made landfall on my 5th continent!  Having only really seen pictures of the bushland in Africa, the site of builidings and smog was not exactly what I was expecting.   But the city was just like any other, with lots of traffic and graffited overpasses. 

Having been warned about the crime and roughness of Johannesburg, I was apprehensive on the way to the hotel, keeping an eye out for the "dangers" that may be lurking around the corner.  What I found was friendly people, and a careful, but comfortable atmosphere.   Granted, I am in a fairly upper class neighborhood, neighboring a conference center and business area.  

At the recommendation of the local PRA staff, I wandered over to the next door shopping center, and wandered through the shops, arriving in the middle of an open air square complete with a fountain and a monument to Nelson Mandela.  Dotted on the edge of the square where a number of resturants, including a seafood place where i enjoyed a very nice local Sauvignon Blanc.   I also enjoyed dinner at an African resturant where I experienced an amazing lamb shank, with a beautiful pinotage, all while being entertained by a group of traditional drummers.  

While the need for security is obvious, as seen by the abumdance of barbed wire, gated areas and always present armed guards, there is something enticing and welcoming about South Africa, especially in every person I have met so far.  There is beauty amoung the concrete and I am lucky to get to see it.   Tomorrow I am off to Durban, where I will get to see the coast, some safaris and the mountains.  

From Poland with Love

2011 seems to be the year for weddings!  And I was so lucky to get to travel to Rogow, Poland to witness my dear UK friends, Ewa and Peter join their lives.  Flying into Krakow on a cold and rainy day, I meet up with some work friends to drive the 2 hrs across Poland to reach the small, quaint village.  Luckily, the weather could not have been more perfect for the day, with temps in the mid 70's (F) and the sun gently warming the guests as we gathered outside the church to await the bride.

With the groom taking his place alongside the best man, the doors opened to reveal the procession of the bridesmaids, and then, with the sun throwing rays at their feet, the radiant bride was lead down the aisle by her father.   The ceremony was entirely in Polish, so we were wondering exactly what Pete agreed to, however he did so with the biggest smile ever seen.

As soon as Pete and Ewa were named husband and wife, the party began!  The couple greeted their subjects from the balcony of the castle, and we enjoyed bubbles and bites before moving inside of the beginning of what would end up being a 8-course meal!  At least, I think there were 8-courses...I lost count!!   And on the tables were bottles of specially labeled vodka for the toasts.  And there were LOTS of toasts!  And the bottles keep coming.   At one point, they called up all the guests by birthday month in order for us to do shots!  So glad I had plenty of practice in college ;)

The party went on into the wee hours of the morning.  Our crew called it a night at about 3am, however rumour has it that the party went on until 7am.   The perfect celebration for one of the best couples I have ever meet!!

Congratulations and Best Wishes Peter and Ewa!!!!!

Czech (Republic) Please!

What a surprise it was to get a call on Friday at work, and hear "we need you to go to Czech Republic on Tuesday!".  Since coming to Europe 15 months ago, all I have heard is how I need to Prague...so of course, I jumped at the chance!  Except....as typical for my job, my time in Prague was to consist of a hotel bed for 6 hours, and then on to Brno I was headed.

Not to be disappointed, I went about finding all of the neat, fun facts about the second largest city, located in the eastern portion of the country.  Very quickly I realized that I was in a place of important scientific history.  As I strolled down the street, a fourteen-century Augustinian monastery rises over the modern skyline, drawing me towards it like a moth to firelight.   I have a thing for old churches, and as I approached this one, I entered into the Mendel Gardens.  For those of you who are not bio-nerds, Gregor Mendel worked out the basics of inheritance and genetic domanance while breeding pea-plants.  His work was not appriciated during his life, however all current biology students know Mendel as the "Father of Modern Genetics".  It was a bit thrilling being in such a historic place!

A stroll through the city center was a brilliant treat, as the area was completely a pedestrian zone, and was alive with the vivacity of a warm summer's day!  It seemed the entire population was enjoying a nice beer under the large awnings of the local pubs.  The original lagers were brewed in the region now known as Czech Republic, and the tradition remains as there are exclusively local brews available for consumption.  It was at such an occasion of al fresco dining where I enjoyed the ultimate in Czech beer....the originial Budweiser (brewed by Budvar) with a delicious pizza (which I ordered in the best international language...Pictures!!).

While I still need to get to Prague, I am thrilled to have gotten the chance to see a lesser known, and under appriciated area of the Czech Republic!