Africa Part 3: Up the pass and into Lesotho

My next adventure started at 6am with a cheerful greeting by Dave, my faithful tour guide.  We were off to the mountains thru the gentle mist of an early morning, enjoying the quiet that comes with a Sunday morning.  After 2 hours driving through pine tree farms we arrived at Underberg.  Here, I was handed from Dave to Charles, who would be the guide for the trip up the Sani Pass and into the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.  I was joined at this point by a Dutch couple who were 1 week into their 3 week holiday trip to S. Africa. 

In a blue Land Rover that had seen much better days, our group was off to begin our ascent into the Drakenburg mountains, which is both a UNESCO heritage site and a protected nature reserve.  As the road gradually got steeper, we passed through rolling green slopes and came upon a troop of baboons out for a morning frolick.  Finally we reach the South Africian border control, and enter into No Mans Land, where only 4-wheel drive vehicles are permitted.

At this point, the slope increases, the road becomes nothing more then a narrow tow-path full of rocks and hairpin turns.  These curves have been named by the locals as "Devil's Elbow", "Suicide Corner" and "Don't look to your left"....to name a few!  Needless to say, I was gripping the seat and praying that the seat belt held!

Much relief was had when we reached the top, and passed through Lesotho immigration.    We only spent a few hours in Lesotho, but in that time we went to a border village and spent time with some local woman, listening as they told us the history of the independent kingdom which is completly surrounded by South Africa.   We were treated to freshly made bread (wonderful!) and beer (a bit on the unusual side).   Afterwards we lunched at the Sani Top Lodge, the highest pub in Africa at 9000 ft above sea level!

 

At the end of the day, we made our way back down the pass, which had not gotten any less frightening in the hours we were off of it.   Finally, we made it back to the bottom, where I met back up with Dave and headed back to the coast!

Africa Part 2: In Search of the Big 5!

There is only one thing that can make me wake up before the 5:30am alarm on a Saturday morning......SAFARI!!!!  So after being greeted and collected by Dave (who ended up being my personal tour guide), we headed north through the sugar cane and eucalyptus tree fields, into Zululand.  Along the way, I learned about south african poltics, history of the local tribes, and many other interesting facts about the area. 

2.5 hours later we roll into Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, the oldest game reserve park in South Africa.   Its also a leader in conservation, bringing the White Rhino back from the brink of extinction.  Lastly, it is home to all of the Big 5: elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion and leopard.  All of this gives me hope of some serious animal sightings during the day. 

Within the first half hour, I had seen rhino, zebra, giraffe and buffalo.  The most amazing thing about the park is that the animals are not segregated and hand feed.  They roam around in their natural ecosystem, hunting and intermingling in the way that they would outside of human eyes.  There is such a feeling of sneaking a peek at something that amazing.

The most amazing part of the day was as we were pulled off on a side trail, trying to figure out if the grey blob in the distance was a rhino or an elephant.  Just as we were about to move on, a movement from up the hillside grabbed our attention.  There, a few young elephants were making their way down to the waterhole.  Then a few more came down, and then a few more.  In just a few moments, there were more then 40 elephants were gathered around for a drink and some cooling off.  The herd was made up of older elephants and young calfs.  Even some babies, so incredably small, tagging along, single file with the mom. 

After a break for lunch, we set out along the south side of the park.  The midday naptime apparently applies to the animal kingdom, as there was less wildlife out and about.  Towards the end we came upon some antelope and some warthogs grazing on the side of the road, giving us a last sight before heading back to Durban.

Africa Part 1: Joburg!

Well, its official!  Wed morning, at 7:30am, I made landfall on my 5th continent!  Having only really seen pictures of the bushland in Africa, the site of builidings and smog was not exactly what I was expecting.   But the city was just like any other, with lots of traffic and graffited overpasses. 

Having been warned about the crime and roughness of Johannesburg, I was apprehensive on the way to the hotel, keeping an eye out for the "dangers" that may be lurking around the corner.  What I found was friendly people, and a careful, but comfortable atmosphere.   Granted, I am in a fairly upper class neighborhood, neighboring a conference center and business area.  

At the recommendation of the local PRA staff, I wandered over to the next door shopping center, and wandered through the shops, arriving in the middle of an open air square complete with a fountain and a monument to Nelson Mandela.  Dotted on the edge of the square where a number of resturants, including a seafood place where i enjoyed a very nice local Sauvignon Blanc.   I also enjoyed dinner at an African resturant where I experienced an amazing lamb shank, with a beautiful pinotage, all while being entertained by a group of traditional drummers.  

While the need for security is obvious, as seen by the abumdance of barbed wire, gated areas and always present armed guards, there is something enticing and welcoming about South Africa, especially in every person I have met so far.  There is beauty amoung the concrete and I am lucky to get to see it.   Tomorrow I am off to Durban, where I will get to see the coast, some safaris and the mountains.