Sunday, February 13, 2011

A pint with the Bard

"All the world's a stage, and the people merely players".  Having realized that the original stage of one of the most famous playwrights in history was a mere 2 hours away, this player decided to make the journey to Stratford-upon-Avon, the birth, and death, place of William Shakespeare.  First impressions are sometimes not worth a lot, as I stepped off the train to be met with a vast parking lot of a local supermarket chain, but as I made my way into the town, I soon pleasently greeted by a quaint, bustling pedistrian street lined with pubs and small shops, like most English country towns.  I quickly noticed how ingrained Shakespeare is to this town, as quotes from his plays and sonnets decorate the buildings throughout town, and there are statues of his characters scattered about.
Going a bit backwards in my touring, my first hour was spent strolling along the river Avon, soaking up the rare day of February sunshine until reaching the Holy Trinity Church, family church of the Shakespeare's and his final resting place.  The church had one of the prettiest yards I have seen, with the trees dotted among the gravestones overlooking the river.  The church itself was striking, but modest.  And the alter area, where Shakespeare is buried was respectfully peaceful, even with the spattering of visitors.  What I found most interesting was the original records of baptism and burial of Shakespeare that were on display, next to the baptismal font that was in use during the 16th century.  It was a very tasteful display, with not a lot of pomp to it.

Having seen the end, I headed back into the town center to visit Shakespeare's birthplace.  The house is still standing in its originial location on Henley Street, and the guides were very certain to point out what parts of the house were thought to be present during Shakespeare's life (most of the ground level, including the stone floor....so I really did walk in Shakespeare's footsteps!) and what had been added during the 17th and 18th century renovations (the upper level).  The house has been visited by Shakespeare's fans since the 1800's and became an official museum late in that century.  The most interesting thing I realized from the visit to the birthplace, is how Shakespeare, unlike so many other writers of his time, was well known and respected for his work during his life.  So the town has really been a homage to him for centuries, rather then a modern-day shrine that was erected in the last few decades. 

 After the forced journey through the gift shop, and stopping at the local tavern for some ale and lunch, I skipped the tourist buses, and took the mile journey to Anne Hathaway's cottage by foot.  The cottage is deemed as one of the most romantic cottages in England, and is the site of Shakespeare's courtship of his future bride.  The cottage, tucked away in a tiny village, in the woods and along a narrow stream, was truely an idyllic setting.  There was even a wedding being performed on the grounds during my visit!   As it is still winter, the orchards were bare, and there were only the beginnings of flowers starting to poke out of the earth.  I would very much like to come back during the summer to see the cottage in its full bloom.

At this time, my visit to Stratford was coming to a close, and I had time for a quick cup of coffee before heading back to the train.  I learned quite a bit about Shakespeare, his life, and his times during my day.  Now, off to find a use of the book of Shakespearean insults I might have picked up........

1 comment:

  1. It sounds like an awesome little town! I want to see it sometime! I particularly like the part about quotes of his being all throughout town. It makes me think there's an academic feel to the place, which I like a lot for small towns.

    -James

    P.S. Did Anne say anything about me? Did she?? ;)

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